(《纲目》)
【释名】茭米(《文选》)、雕蓬(《尔雅》)、雕 (《说文》。《唐韵》作KT 胡)、雕
胡
时珍曰∶菰本作 ,茭草也。其中生菌如瓜形,可食,故谓之 。其米须霜雕时采之,
故谓之凋 。或讹为雕胡。枚乘《七发》谓之安胡。《尔雅》∶啮,雕蓬;荐,黍蓬。孙
炎注云∶雕蓬即茭米。古人以为五饭之一者。郑樵《通志》云∶雕蓬即米茭,可作饭食,
故谓之啮。其黍蓬即茭之不结实者,惟堪作荐,故谓之荐。杨慎《卮言》云∶蓬有水、陆二
种∶雕蓬乃水蓬,雕 是也。黍蓬乃旱蓬,青科是也。青科结实如黍,羌人食之,今松州有
焉。珍按∶郑、杨二说不同,然皆有理,盖蓬类非一种故也。
【集解】弘景曰∶菰米一名雕胡,可作饼食。
藏器曰∶雕胡,是菰蒋草米,古人所贵。故《内则》云∶鱼宜 。皆水物也。曹子建《
七启》云∶芳菰精稗。谓二草之实,可以为饭也。
颂曰∶菰生水中,叶如蒲苇。其苗有茎梗者,谓之菰蒋草。至秋结实,乃雕胡米也。古
人以为美馔。今饥岁,人犹采以当粮。葛洪《西京杂记》云∶汉太液池边,皆是雕胡、紫箨
、绿节、蒲丛之类。盖菰之有米者,长安人谓之雕胡;菰之有首者,谓之绿节;葭芦之未解
叶者,谓之紫箨也。
宗 曰∶菰蒋,花如苇。结青子,细若青麻黄,长几寸。野人收之,合粟为粥食之,甚
济饥也。
时珍曰∶雕胡,九月抽茎,开花如苇 。结实长寸许,霜后采之,大如茅针,皮黑褐色。
其米甚白而滑腻,作饭香脆。杜甫诗“波漂菰米沉云黑”者,即此。《周礼》供御乃六谷、
九谷之数,《管子书》谓之雁膳,故收米入此。其茭笋、菰根,别见菜部。
【气味】甘,冷,无毒。
【主治】止渴(藏器)。解烦热,调肠胃(时珍)。
【释名】茭米(出自《文选》)、雕蓬(出自《尔雅》)、雕 (出自《说文解字》。《唐韵》写作“KT 胡”)、雕胡
李时珍说:菰原本写作“ ”,是指茭草。其中生长出的菌状物形状像瓜,可以食用,所以称为“ ”。它的米必须在霜降时节采收,所以称为“凋 ”。或者讹传为“雕胡”。枚乘在《七发》中称之为“安胡”。《尔雅》记载:啮,即雕蓬;荐,即黍蓬。孙炎注释说:雕蓬就是茭米。古人将其视为五种主食之一。郑樵在《通志》中说:雕蓬就是米茭,可以做饭食用,所以称为“啮”。那黍蓬就是茭草中不结实的品种,只能用来铺垫,所以称为“荐”。杨慎在《卮言》中说:蓬有水生和陆生两种:雕蓬是水生蓬,即雕 ;黍蓬是旱生蓬,即青科。青科结实类似黍米,羌人食用它,现在松州还有这种植物。我考察认为:郑樵和杨慎的说法不同,但都有道理,大概是因为蓬类植物不止一种的缘故。
孟诜说:雕胡,是菰蒋草的米,是古人所珍视的。所以《礼记·内则》说:吃鱼适宜搭配 。它们都是水生植物。曹植在《七启》中说:芳菰精稗。指的是这两种草的种子,可以用来做饭。
苏颂说:菰生长在水中,叶子像蒲草和芦苇。它的幼苗中有茎梗的,称为菰蒋草。到了秋天结实,就是雕胡米。古人将其视为美味佳肴。如今遇到饥荒年份,人们仍然采集它来当作粮食。葛洪在《西京杂记》中说:汉太液池边,到处都是雕胡、紫箨、绿节、蒲丛之类的植物。大概是菰有米的,长安人称为雕胡;菰有嫩茎的,称为绿节;葭芦尚未展开叶片的,称为紫箨。
寇宗奭说:菰蒋的花像芦苇。结出青色果实,细小如同青麻黄,长度近几寸。野外之人收集它,混合粟米煮粥食用,非常有助于充饥。
李时珍说:雕胡,九月抽茎,开花像芦苇。结成长约一寸的果实,霜降后采收,大小如茅针,外皮黑褐色。里面的米非常白且滑腻,做饭时香气酥脆。杜甫诗句“波漂菰米沉云黑”说的就是这种。《周礼》中供奉御用的六谷、九谷之中包含它,《管子》书中称之为雁膳,所以将收得的米收录在此处。其茭笋、菰根,另见蔬菜部。
【气味】味甘,性冷,无毒。
[Names] Jiaomi (from *Wenxuan*), Diaopeng (from *Erya*), Diao [character missing/variant] (from *Shuowen Jiezi*. Written as "KT Hu" in *Tang Yun*), Diaohu.
Li Shizhen stated: The character for Gu originally written as " ", refers to the Zao grass (Zizania latifolia). A mushroom-like growth resembling a melon forms within it, which is edible; hence it is called " ". Its grain must be harvested during the Frost Descent solar term, hence it is called "Diao ". Alternatively, it is erroneously referred to as "Diaohu". Mei Cheng referred to it as "Anhu" in his work *Qi Fa*. The *Erya* records: "Nie" is Diaopeng; "Jian" is Shupeng. Sun Yan's annotation states that Diaopeng is Jiaomi. In ancient times, it was considered one of the five staple grains. Zheng Qiao, in *Tongzhi*, stated that Diaopeng is Mi Jiao, which can be used to make rice and thus is called "Nie". The Shupeng is the variety of Zao grass that does not produce grain, suitable only for use as bedding, hence it is called "Jian". Yang Shen, in *Zhiyan*, stated that Peng has two types: aquatic and terrestrial. Diaopeng is the aquatic type, i.e., Diao [character missing/variant]; Shupeng is the terrestrial type, i.e., Qingke. Qingke produces grains similar to millet and is eaten by the Qiang people; it is still found in Songzhou today. Upon investigation, I find that both Zheng and Yang have valid points, likely because there are multiple species within the Peng genus.
[Collection of Explanations] Tao Hongjing stated: Gu mi is also known as Diaohu and can be made into cakes.
Meng Shen stated: Diaohu is the grain of the Guchang grass, highly valued by ancients. Thus, the *Neize* chapter of the *Book of Rites* states: Fish pairs well with [Gu]. Both are aquatic plants. Cao Zhi, in his *Qi Qi*, mentioned "Fragrant Gu and refined barnyard grass," referring to the seeds of these two plants, which can be cooked as rice.
Su Song stated: Gu grows in water, with leaves resembling cattails and reeds. When its seedlings develop stems, they are called Guchang grass. By autumn, they produce grain, which is Diaohu rice. It was regarded as a delicacy by the ancients. In times of famine, people still harvest it as food. Ge Hong, in *Xijing Zaji*, wrote: Along the banks of the Taiye Pool in Han Chang'an, there were abundant patches of Diaohu, Zituo, Lujie, and cattails. Generally, Gu that produces grain is called Diaohu by people in Chang'an; Gu that produces tender shoots is called Lujie; Reed buds that have not yet unfurled their leaves are called Zituo.
Kou Zongsui stated: The flowers of Guchang resemble reeds. It bears small green seeds, fine like hemp, nearly an inch long. Rural people collect them and mix them with millet to make porridge, which is very effective for relieving hunger.
Li Shizhen stated: Diaohu sends up stems in September, flowering like reeds. It produces fruits about an inch long, harvested after frost, roughly the size of a cattail shoot, with blackish-brown skin. The grain inside is very white and slippery; when cooked as rice, it is fragrant and crisp. The line from Du Fu’s poem, "Floating Gu grains drift like dark clouds sinking in waves," refers to this. It is included among the Six Grains or Nine Grains offered in the *Rites of Zhou*. The *Guanzi* refers to it as "Goose Meal," so its grain is recorded here. Its tender shoots (Jiaosun) and roots (Gugen) are detailed separately in the Vegetable section.
[Properties and Flavor] Sweet, cold, non-toxic.
[Therapeutic Actions] Relieves thirst (Meng Shen). Clears irritability and heat, regulates the stomach and intestines (Li Shizhen).