Library

(Jiaxiang Meat, Aged Ham Bone, Dragonfly Bone on the Pig's Neck, Flesh from the Corners of Male Pig's Eyes, Method for Preparing Ham)

Commonly known as ham, the best quality comes from Jinhua. It is produced in all six counties under Jinhua Prefecture, but those from Dongyang and Pujiang are superior. Cured ham is divided into winter-ham and spring-ham, and further distinguished by front leg and hind leg. Winter-ham can be stored for a long time without spoiling, whereas spring-ham turns bad-tasting upon entering summer, and if kept too long, it becomes infested with maggots and rotting, making it inedible. Among winter-hams, the hind leg is particularly selected because its meat is fine and dense, suitable for long-term storage, while the front leg is relatively inferior. This is likely because in the Jinhua area, households mostly use wooden steamers to cook rice rather than boiling pots, and they feed the pigs with the thick, rich rice water. Their method of raising pigs involves selecting clean pens, feeding them with bean dregs and bran morning and evening, and also giving them cooked porridge. In summer, melon peels and vegetable leaves are added to their diet; in winter, food must be served hot. The pigs' hunger and fullness are regulated, and their warmth and cold are monitored, resulting in fine-textured and fragrant meat. Pigs raised by boat-dwelling fishermen are especially good, producing what is called "boat-leg," which is smaller than other legs but has an even more fragrant and delicious taste. Any Jinhua winter-ham aged for three years, when boiled and eaten, fills the room with fragrance; it tastes sweet and crisp upon entry, stimulates appetite exceptionally well, and is suitable for various ailments. *Annals of Dongyang County* records: Smoked trotter, commonly called ham, is actually smoke-cured rather than fire-roasted. Those that are cured, sun-dried, smoked, and stored according to proper methods indeed surpass ordinary products, because the salt used must be Taizhou salt, and the smoke must be pine smoke. The aroma is intense and penetrates well, and since production is timely and follows regulations, the longer it ages, the more delicious it becomes. Another variety is called "wind-trotter," which is not salted and is known as "light-leg." Pujiang produces the most of this, while the local area produces little. *Chen Yuanfu's Medicine Mirror* records: Pujiang light-leg is smaller than salted-leg and has a very mild flavor; it can be used to brew tea, hence named "tea-leg." Aged versions stop bloody dysentery and stimulate appetite with miraculous effects. *Chen Zhishan's Food Appropriateness and Taboos* records: After curing, ham is dried and hung high; those reaching the following summer are better the older they get, and those from counties under Jinhua Prefecture are preferred. *Notes of Vice-Constant Chang* records: Lanxun refers to Jinhua pig legs. Although southern regions everywhere can produce them, none match Jinhua's quality because Jinhua ham has thin, red skin, is lightly smoked yet fragrant, thus spreading far and wide and regarded as a precious item. However, only those from Pujiang are truly excellent. The preparation involves slaughtering in winter, applying salt evenly to make the flesh firm and resistant to spoilage. The highest grade is called "shallow-leg," which is delicious, fragrant, and clean, suitable for accompanying tea—a method not found elsewhere. This is likely because pigs in this region are raised in clean pens and slaughtered, cured, and dried as soon as they reach maturity. Alternatively, some say the breed of pigs here is originally different from others and is fed water from streams like Xiangxi, which is also plausible. *Chen Yao's Secret Recipe for Preserving Medicine* records: When collecting ham, one must select the hind leg of Jinhua pigs cured in winter as the top grade. Choose those with thin, lustrous skin that shines brightly in sunlight, where the inner bone is faintly visible throughout the body. Apply sesame oil thoroughly over the surface. Pierce each leg with a long rope, arrange them in a single row, and place split bamboo poles underneath to catch the dripping oil. Store in a ventilated place; even after ten years, it will not spoil. If green mold appears during the summer plum rain season, it causes no harm. If insects appear and bore holes, pick them out with a bamboo stick and fill the holes with sesame oil. For remaining pieces after cutting, apply salt to the cut surface, wrap tightly in lotus leaves, and hang up; following this method allows for long-term preservation. Ge San, servant of the Zhu family, said: In his youth, he worked in Jinhua and learned the trade, knowing the curing method in great detail. He stated: Ham is produced in all six jurisdictions of Jinhua, but the best comes from Tangjia Village in Pujiang. The village has only one or two thousand households, all raising pigs for ham. These pigs are not large, weighing at most 70–80 jin (approx. 35–40 kg), yielding dried legs of only 3–5 jin (approx. 1.5–2.5 kg). Curing can be done in any season, but winter-ham is the best. Winter-cured ham has fine skin without millet-grain-sized pores, feels smooth and greasy to the touch, shows no yellow fat when cut, and has curved claws; it resists insect damage for a long time. Hams from other seasons are prone to infestation; spring-hams have many pores, summer-hams have straight claws, and autumn-hams have coarse skin. Curing method: For every 10 jin (approx. 5 kg) of leg, use 4 liang (approx. 150 g) of fried salt. Use a wooden paddle shaped like a human palm to mix with the salt, then gently rub the leg with the paddle, ensuring all sides are covered. Wait until the skin becomes soft like cotton, then place it in a vat. Cover the vat mouth with a bamboo sieve made of spicy smartweed (*Polygonum hydropiper*). After seven days, when brine forms, stir to ensure even distribution. Add another 4 liang of fried salt and rub in by hand as before, then return to the vat. After ten days, remove from the vat, wash thoroughly with the original brine, tie securely with straw ropes, and hang in a ventilated area. Only winter-cured hams do not drip oil.

Taste: Salty and sweet. Nature: Neutral.

Chen Zhishan says: Harmonizes the middle jiao (middle burner), benefits the kidneys, nourishes stomach qi, and tonifies deficiency and fatigue.

Lu Yao says: Generates body fluids, benefits blood vessels, consolidates bone marrow, strengthens yang, stops diarrhea and chronic dysentery, treats postpartum weakness and palpitations, stimulates appetite, and calms the spirit.

*Characteristics of Medicinal Properties* records: Ham is salty and warm; it opens the stomach and widens the chest diaphragm, making it suitable for patients; it directs qi downward and treats dysphagia.

For abdominal pain lasting three or four days without relief, *Bi Yuan Xian Dan* records: Decoct ham meat in water, add genuine Sichuan pepper (*Zanthoxyli Pericarpium*), skim off the floating oil, and drink the soup while hot to immediately stop chronic diarrhea.

*Jiu Sheng Ku Hai* records: Take one aged ham foot, boil in plain water for a day until extremely tender, consume the meat and broth in one sitting to achieve cure; repeat up to three doses if necessary. This prescription was frequently tested and proven effective by my clansman Bai Yun. *Bai Cao Jing* states: Ham originates from Pujiang County; those with fine shin bones are authentic, and aged ones are superior. The heavier the green mold on the skin, the better the flavor. Must be washed to remove dirt and yellow grease before use.