出滇南,色白,久则色微黄,以盏烹瀹,清香迥胜,形似莲心,但作玉芽色耳。 平来
仲云
雪地所产,色白味甘,性大温,怯寒疾如神。
甘苦性温,治胃气积痛,疗痢如神。
敏按∶雪茶出云南永善县,其地山高积雪,入夏不消,雪中生此,本非茶类,乃天生一
种草
芽,土人采得炒焙,以其似茶,故名。其色白,故曰雪茶。己亥腊过余杭,往访刘挹清少府
,啜雪茶,云带自云南,茶片皆作筒子,如蜜筒菊蕊瓣样,询所主治,因言此茶大能暖胃,
凡严寒冰冻时,啜一盏,满腹如火,若患痨损及失血过多之人,腹胃必寒,最忌食茶,惟此
茶不忌,乃相与烹瀹食之,果入腹温暖,味亦苦咧香美,较他茶更浓。
大观茶论∶白茶自为一种,与常茶不同,其条敷阐,其叶莹薄,崖林之间,偶然生出,
非人
力所可致,有者不过四五家,生者不过一二株,所造止于二三 而已,芽英不多,尤难蒸焙
,汤火一失,则已变而为常品。须制造精微,运度得宜,则表里昭澈,如玉之在璞,它无与
伦也。 东溪试茶录∶白叶茶,民间大重,出于近岁,园焙时有之,地不以山川远近,发不
以社之先,芽叶如纸,民间以为茶瑞。
出福建崇安,其茶色黑而味酸,最消食下气,醒脾解酒。 单杜可云∶诸茶皆性寒,胃
弱者
性温,不伤胃,凡茶 停饮者宜之。
治休息痢 救生苦海∶乌梅肉、武彝茶、干姜,为丸服。
Produced in southern Yunnan, it is white in color and turns slightly yellow after a long time. When brewed in a cup, its fragrance far surpasses others; its shape resembles lotus hearts, but appears in the color of jade buds (Yuya).
Ping Laizhong stated: Produced in snowy areas, with white color and sweet taste, and a strongly warm nature, it is miraculous in treating cold-aversion diseases.
[Another record] With a sweet and bitter taste and warm nature, it treats stomach qi accumulation pain and is miraculous in treating dysentery.
Zhao Xuemin's note: Snow tea is produced in Yongshan County, Yunnan. The area has high mountains covered with snow that does not melt even in summer. This plant grows in the snow; it originally does not belong to the tea category but is a naturally born grass bud. Locals pick it, stir-fry, and roast it. Because it resembles tea, it is named Snow Tea. Its color is white, hence the name. In the twelfth lunar month of the Jihai year, passing through Yuhang, I visited Liu Yiqing, Vice Prefect, and drank Snow Tea. He said the tea was brought from Yunnan; the tea pieces were all made into tube shapes, resembling the petals of honey-tube chrysanthemum stamens. When asked about its main indications, he replied that this tea greatly warms the stomach. Whenever it is severely cold and frozen, drinking one cup makes the whole abdomen feel like fire. For those suffering from consumptive disease (Lao Sun) or excessive blood loss, the abdomen and stomach must be cold, and they strictly avoid drinking tea. Only this tea is not contraindicated. Thus, we boiled and brewed it together and drank it. Indeed, upon entering the abdomen, it felt warm, and the taste was bitter yet fragrant and delicious, stronger than other teas.
*Da Guan Cha Lun* records: White tea forms its own category, different from common tea. Its strips are spread out, and its leaves are crystal clear and thin. It grows accidentally between cliffs and forests, not achievable by human effort. There may be only four or five households producing it, with only one or two plants growing. The yield is limited to two or three *jin*. The buds are few, making steaming and roasting particularly difficult. If the water and fire control fail, it becomes an ordinary product. Manufacturing must be exquisite, and heat management appropriate, so that the inside and outside become transparent and clear, like jade within uncut stone, unmatched by any other tea.
*Dongxi Shi Cha Lu* records: White Leaf Tea is highly valued by the folk. It appeared in recent years. Garden roasting occasionally produces it. The origin does not depend on the distance of mountains and rivers, and harvesting does not depend on the priority of She days. The buds and leaves are as white as paper, and the folk consider it an auspicious sign of tea.
Produced in Chong'an, Fujian. The tea is black in color and sour in taste. It is most effective in promoting digestion, directing qi downward, awakening the spleen, and resolving alcohol intoxication.
Shan Duké said: Most teas have a cold nature, [but Wuyi Tea] has a warm nature, does not injure the stomach, and is suitable for those with tea stagnation and fluid retention.
*Jisheng Kuhai* records: To treat recurrent dysentery (Xiuxi Li), use Semen Pruni Mume (Wumei, 乌梅) flesh, Wuyi Tea, and Rhizoma Zingiberis Preparatum (Ganjiang, 干姜), processed into pills for administration.