（音房。《食疗》）
【释名】 鱼（音编）。
时珍曰∶鲂，方也。 ，扁也。其状方，其身扁也。
【集解】时珍∶鲂鱼处处有之，汉沔尤多。小头缩项，穹脊阔腹，扁身细鳞，其色青白。
腹内有肪，味最腴美。其性宜活水。故《诗》云∶岂其食鱼，必河之鲂。
美如牛羊。又有一种火烧 ，头尾俱似鲂，而脊骨更隆。上有赤鬣连尾，如蝙蝠之翼，黑质
赤章，色如烟熏，故名。其大有至二、三十斤者。
肉
【气味】甘，温，无毒。
【主治】调胃气，利五脏。和芥食之，能助肺气，去胃风，消谷。作 食之，助脾气，
令人能食。作羹 食，宜人，功与鲫同。患疳痢人勿食（孟诜）。
（宋《嘉 》）
【释名】四鳃鱼。
时珍曰∶黑色曰卢。此鱼白质黑章，故名。淞人名四鳃鱼。
【集解】时珍曰∶鲈出吴中，淞江尤盛，四五月方出。长仅数寸，
黑点，巨口细鳞，有四鳃。杨诚斋诗颇尽其状，云∶鲈出鲈乡芦叶前，
来玉尺如何短，铸出银梭直是圆。白质黑章三四点，细鳞巨口一双鲜。春风已
得秋风更迥然。《南郡记》云∶吴人献淞江鲈 于隋炀帝。帝曰∶金齑玉 ，
肉
【气味】甘，平，有小毒。
宗 曰∶虽有小毒，不甚发病。
禹锡曰∶多食，发 癖疮肿，不可同乳酪食。李鹏飞云∶肝不可食，剥人面皮。
诜曰∶中鲈鱼毒者，芦根汁解之。
【主治】补五脏，益筋骨，和肠胃，治水气。多食宜人，作 尤良。曝干甚香美（嘉 ）。
益肝肾（宗 ）。安胎补中。作 尤佳（孟诜）。
（音房。出自《食疗本草》）
【释名】 鱼（音编）。
李时珍说：鲂，意为“方”。鱼（指松江鲈鱼），意为“扁”。它的形状是方的，身体是扁的。
【集解】李时珍说：鲂鱼各地都有，汉水和沔水一带尤其多。头小颈缩，背部隆起腹部宽阔，身体扁平鳞片细小，颜色青白。
腹内有脂肪，味道最为肥美。它的生活习性适宜活水。所以《诗经》中说：“难道吃鱼，一定要吃河里的鲂鱼吗？”
味道鲜美如同牛羊。又有一种叫火烧鱼，头尾都像鲂鱼，但脊骨更高隆。背上有红色的鳍连着尾巴，像蝙蝠的翅膀，底色黑花纹红，颜色像被烟熏过，因此得名。大的有二三十斤重。
肉
【气味】甘味，温性，无毒。
【主治】调理胃气，通利五脏。与芥菜一起食用，能辅助肺气，去除胃风，帮助消化谷物。做成粥食用，能辅助脾气，让人食欲增加。做成羹汤食用，适合人体，功效与鲫鱼相同。患疳积痢疾的人不要食用（孟诜）。
（出自宋代《嘉祐本草》）
【释名】四鳃鱼。
李时珍说：黑色称为卢。这种鱼白底黑纹，因此得名。苏州人叫它四鳃鱼。
【集解】李时珍说：鲈鱼产于吴中地区，松江最为丰盛，四五月间才出现。身长仅几寸，有黑点，口大鳞细，有四条鳃。杨诚斋的诗很好地描绘了它的形态，说：“鲈鱼生长在鲈乡的芦叶前，用玉尺量起来怎么这么短？铸造成银梭直是圆的。白底黑纹三四点，细鳞大口一双鲜。春风已得，秋风更是迥然不同。”《南郡记》说：吴地人向隋炀帝进献松江鲈鱼。皇帝说：“金齑玉脍，”
【气味】甘味，平性，有小毒。
苏颂说：虽然有小毒，但不容易引起疾病发作。
陈藏器说：多吃会引发癖积疮肿，不可与乳酪同食。李鹏飞说：肝不可食用，据说能剥下人的面皮。
孟诜说：中了鲈鱼毒的人，用芦根汁可以解毒。
【主治】补益五脏，强健筋骨，调和肠胃，治疗水气病。多吃适合人体，做成脍（生鱼片）尤其好。晒干后非常香美（苏颂）。
益肝肾（苏颂）。安胎补中。做成脍尤其佳（孟诜）。
(Fang, pronunciation. From *Shiliao Bencao* [Food Therapy Materia Medica])
[Names] Yu (pronunciation Bian).
Li Shizhen said: Fang means "square." Yu refers to "flat." Its shape is square, and its body is flat.
[Collected Explanations] Li Shizhen said: Fang fish are found everywhere, but especially abundant in the Han and Mian rivers. It has a small head and retracted neck, a convex back and broad belly, a flat body with fine scales, and its color is greenish-white.
There is fat inside the abdomen, and the taste is extremely rich and delicious. Its nature prefers living water. Thus, the *Classic of Poetry* says: "When eating fish, must it be the river Fang?"
It is as delicious as beef and mutton. There is also a variety called Huoshao Yu (Fire-baked Fish), whose head and tail resemble Fang fish, but the spinal bone is more prominent. It has red fins on top connected to the tail, resembling bat wings, with a black base and red markings, colored like smoked meat, hence the name. Some can weigh up to twenty or thirty jin.
Meat
[Properties and Flavors] Sweet, warm, non-toxic.
[Indications] Regulates stomach Qi, benefits the five Zang organs. Consumed with mustard greens, it assists Lung Qi, dispels Stomach wind, and promotes grain digestion. Eaten as porridge, it assists Spleen Qi and enhances appetite. Made into soup, it is suitable for the human body, with effects similar to Crucian Carp. Those suffering from infantile malnutrition (Gan syndrome) and dysentery should not eat it (Meng Shen).
(From Song Dynasty *Jiayou Bencao* [Bencao Elaborated])
[Names] Four-gill Fish.
Li Shizhen said: Black is called Lu. This fish has a white body with black markings, hence the name. People in Songjiang call it the Four-gill Fish.
[Collected Explanations] Li Shizhen said: Perch originates from the Wuzhong region, most abundantly in Songjiang River, appearing in the fourth and fifth lunar months. They are only a few inches long, have black spots, large mouths, fine scales, and four gills. Yang Chengzhai's poem describes them well: "Perch grows before the reed leaves in Perch Township; how short they are when measured by a jade ruler; cast into silver shuttles, they are truly round. White bodies with three or four black spots, fine scales and large mouths, a pair of fresh ones. Spring winds have arrived, autumn winds are even more distinct." The *Nanjun Ji* states: People of Wu presented Songjiang Perch to Emperor Yang of Sui. The Emperor said: "Golden relish and Jade slices,"
[Properties and Flavors] Sweet, neutral, slightly toxic.
Su Song said: Although slightly toxic, it does not easily induce disease onset.
Chen Cangqi said: Overconsumption induces accumulation disorders, sores, and swellings; it should not be eaten with milk or cheese. Li Pengfei said: The liver is inedible, reputedly capable of peeling human facial skin.
Meng Shen said: For those poisoned by Perch, Reed Rhizome juice can resolve the toxicity.
[Indications] Tonifies the five Zang organs, strengthens sinews and bones, harmonizes the intestines and stomach, treats edema/water qi. Eating more is beneficial for the body; making it into raw fish slices (Kuai) is particularly good. Dried, it is very fragrant and delicious (Su Song).
Benefits Liver and Kidney (Su Song). Calms the fetus and tonifies the center. Making it into raw fish slices is particularly excellent (Meng Shen).