或问∶《内经》谓精不足者,补之以味。又曰∶地食人以五味。古者年五十食肉,子今年迈七十矣,尽却盐醯,岂中
道乎?何子之神茂而色泽也?曰∶味有出于天赋者,有成于人为者。天之所赋者,若谷、菽、菜、果,自然冲和之味,
有食人补阴之功,此《内经》所谓味也。人之所为者,皆烹饪调和偏浓之味,有致疾伐命之毒,此吾子所疑之味也。今
盐醯之却,非真茹淡者,大麦与栗之咸,粳米、山药之甘,葱、薤之辛之类,皆味也。子以为淡乎?安于冲和之味者,
心之收,火之降也。以偏浓之味为安者,欲之纵火之胜也,何疑之有?《内经》又曰∶阴之所生,本在五味。非天赋之
味乎?阴之五宫,伤在五味,非人为之味乎?圣人防民之具,于是为备。凡人饥则必食。彼粳米甘而淡者,土之德也,
物之属阴而最补者也。惟可与菜同进,经以菜为充者,恐于饥时顿食,或虑过多,因致胃损,故以菜助其充足,取其疏
通而易化,此天地生物之仁也。《论语》曰∶肉虽多,不使胜食气。《传》曰∶宾主终日百拜,而酒三行,以避酒祸。此
圣人施教之意也。盖谷与肥鲜同进,浓味得谷为助,其积之也久,宁不助阴火而致毒乎?故服食家在却谷者则可,不却
谷而服食,未有不被其毒者。《内经》谓久而增气,物化之常;气增而久,夭之由也。彼安于浓味者,未之思尔!或又问∶
精不足者,补之以味,何不言气补?曰∶味,阴也;气,阳也。补精以阴,求其本也。故补之以味,若甘草、白术、地
黄、泽泻、五味子、天门冬之类,皆味之浓者也。经曰虚者补之,正此意也。上文谓形不足者温之以气。夫为劳倦所伤,
气之虚,故不足。温者,养也。温存以养,使气自充,气完则形完矣。故言温,不言补。经曰劳者温之,正此意也。彼
为《局方》者,不知出此,凡诸虚损证,悉以温热佐辅补药,名之曰温补,不能求经旨者也。
有人问:《内经》说“精气不足的,用味厚的药物来补”。又说“大地通过五味滋养人类”。古人到了五十岁才吃肉,如今我已经七十岁了,完全戒除盐和醋,这符合中庸之道吗?为什么您的精神依然充沛、面色红润呢?
我说:味道有天生赋予的,也有人为加工而成的。上天赋予的味道,比如谷物、豆类、蔬菜、水果,具有自然平和的性质,有食用后补益阴精的功效,这就是《内经》所说的“味”。人为加工的味道,都是经过烹饪调和后的浓烈偏颇之味,有致病的损害生命的毒性,这就是您所疑惑的味道。现在您戒除盐和醋,并不是真正吃淡而无味的食物,大麦和栗子带有咸味,粳米和山药带有甜味,葱和薤带有辛味,这些都属于“味”的范畴。您认为它们是淡的吗?安于自然平和味道的人,心气收敛,相火下降;以浓烈偏颇的味道为安适的人,欲望放纵,相火亢盛,这有什么可怀疑的呢?
《内经》又说:“阴精的产生,根本在于五味。”这不是天赋的味道吗?五脏(阴之五宫)的伤害,往往在于五味(过度或不当),这不是人为加工的味道吗?圣人预防百姓患病的手段,在这里已经完备了。普通人饿了必然要进食。那甘淡的粳米,是土的德性,属于阴物中最能补益的。只适合与蔬菜一起进食,经典中说用蔬菜来充实饮食,是担心在饥饿时突然大量进食,恐怕过多而损伤胃气,所以用蔬菜来帮助充足,取其疏通且易于消化的特性,这是天地化生万物的仁爱之心。《论语》说:“肉虽然多,不使其超过主食的量。”《左传》说:“宾客主人整天行百拜之礼,但酒只喝三巡,以避免酒祸。”这是圣人施教的用意。大概谷物与肥美鲜嫩的肉类同时进食,浓烈的味道得到谷物的帮助,积存时间长久,难道不会助长阴火而导致中毒吗?所以,服食养生的人如果断绝谷物是可以的,不断绝谷物却进行服食养生,没有不被其毒害的。《内经》说:“长期服用某种性质的药物会增加相应的正气,这是事物变化的常规;正气增加久了,就是折寿的原因。”那些安于浓烈味道的人,是没有思考过这个问题啊!
又有人问:“精气不足,用味来补,为什么不提用气来补?”我说:味属阴,气属阳。用阴来补精,是追求根本。所以用味来补,像甘草、白术、地黄、泽泻、五味子、天门冬这类,都是味道浓厚的药物。经典说“虚证用补法”,正是这个意思。上文说“形体不足的,用气来温养”。因为劳倦所伤,导致气虚,所以称为不足。“温”的意思是养护。温和地养护,使气自然充盈,气完善则形体也就完善了。所以说“温”,不说“补”。经典说“劳倦者用温法”,正是这个意思。那些编写《局方》的人,不知道这个道理,凡是各种虚损证候,都用温热药辅助补药,称之为“温补”,是不能探求经典旨意的表现。
A person asked: The *Neijing* (Inner Canon) states, "For deficiency of essence (*Jing*), tonify with flavor." It also says, "The earth nourishes humans through the five flavors." In ancient times, people began eating meat at age fifty. Now I am seventy years old, having completely abstained from salt and vinegar. Does this conform to the Golden Mean? Why is your spirit vigorous and your complexion lustrous?
I replied: Flavors originate either from nature or from human processing. Natural flavors, such as those found in grains, legumes, vegetables, and fruits, possess a naturally mild and harmonious quality. Consuming them has the effect of tonifying Yin essence; this is what the *Neijing* refers to as "flavor." Human-processed flavors are all strong, biased, and concentrated tastes resulting from cooking and seasoning. They contain toxins that can cause disease and shorten life; these are the flavors you doubt. Your current abstinence from salt and vinegar does not mean you are truly eating bland food. The slight saltiness of barley and chestnuts, the sweetness of rice and Chinese yam (*Dioscorea opposita*), and the pungency of green onion and wild leek are all considered "flavors." Do you consider them bland? Those who are content with natural, harmonious flavors experience the restraint of the Heart and the descent of Ministerial Fire (*Xianghuo*). Those who are content with strong, biased flavors indulge their desires, leading to the dominance of Ministerial Fire. What is there to doubt?
The *Neijing* further states, "The generation of Yin is rooted in the five flavors." Are these not natural flavors? "The injury to the five Yin organs lies in the five flavors." Are these not human-processed flavors? Thus, the sages' measures for preventing illness among the people are complete here. When ordinary people are hungry, they must eat. Rice, which is sweet and bland, embodies the virtue of Earth; it belongs to Yin and is the most tonifying of substances. It should only be consumed with vegetables. The classics state that vegetables are used to fill the diet because, when one is starving, sudden overeating may damage the Stomach. Therefore, vegetables are added to ensure fullness, taking advantage of their unblocking properties and ease of digestion. This reflects the benevolence of Heaven and Earth in generating life. The *Analects* say, "Although there may be much meat, do not let it exceed the quantity of grain." The *Zuo Zhuan* records, "Guests and hosts bow to each other hundreds of times throughout the day, but wine is served only three times, to avoid the disasters of alcohol." This is the intent of the sages in teaching. Generally, when grains are eaten together with rich, fresh meats, the strong flavors, aided by the grains, accumulate over time. Would this not aid the growth of Yin-Fire and lead to toxicity? Therefore, while those practicing dietary regimens may abstain from grains, those who do not abstain from grains yet practice such regimens will inevitably suffer harm. The *Neijing* states, "Long-term consumption increases the corresponding Qi; this is the normal transformation of things. If this increase persists for too long, it becomes the cause of premature death." Those who are content with strong flavors have simply failed to reflect on this!
Another question arose: "For deficiency of essence, we tonify with flavor. Why is there no mention of tonifying with Qi?" I said: Flavor belongs to Yin; Qi belongs to Yang. Tonifying essence with Yin seeks the root. Therefore, tonifying with flavor involves substances with strong flavors, such as Licorice Root (*Gancao*), Atractylodes Rhizome (*Baizhu*), Rehmannia Root (*Dihuang*), Alisma Rhizome (*Zexie*), Schisandra Berry (*Wuweizi*), and Asparagus Tuber (*Tianmendong*). The classics say, "Tonify the deficient," which is precisely this meaning. The earlier text stated, "For deficiency of form, warm with Qi." Injury from fatigue and overwork leads to Qi deficiency, hence termed "deficiency." "Warm" here means to nurture. Gentle nurturing allows Qi to become self-sufficient; when Qi is complete, form is complete. Therefore, it speaks of "warming" rather than "tonifying." The classics say, "Treat fatigue with warmth," which is exactly this point. Those who compiled the *Ju Fang* (Formulas of the Bureau) did not understand this. For all types of deficiency syndromes, they invariably use warming herbs to assist tonifying herbs, naming this method "warm-tonification." This demonstrates an inability to grasp the purport of the classics.