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(Shennong's Classic of Food)
[Flavor and Nature] Bitter, sweet, slightly cold in nature, non-toxic.
[Indications] Mainly pleases the mind and enhances strength, reduces the need for sleep, relieves thirst, promotes urination, clears phlegm-heat, and treats sores.

Bitter Tea (Hua Tuo's Classic of Food)
Bitter tea, when consumed over a long period, benefits thought and intention.

Tea (Lu Yu's Biography of Tea)
The utility of tea lies in its extremely cold flavor; as a beverage, it is most suitable for people of refined conduct and frugal virtue. If one suffers from heat-thirst, stagnation, and oppression, headache, dry eyes, limb restlessness, and general joint discomfort, drinking four or five sips can rival the effects of butter essence (Tihu) and sweet dew (Ganlu).

[Verification] Says: Tea is highly esteemed by the world. Although I, Lu Zhiyi, have not fully mastered its taste, I cannot remain indifferent to it. Whenever I read books on tea treatment, there are no fewer than dozens, all recorded in manuscripts, making it difficult to compile and verify them collectively. Presuming to record them item by item here for broad collection. It is said that before Shennong there was the *Classic of Food*, which is respected as the first text. Lu Yu's *Classic of Tea* should be treated as a biography according to the format. Subsequent books successively provided commentaries and annotations. The biography part is not arbitrarily added to or subtracted from; the rest selects only the profound and elegant parts. Each author exerts their own influence without following others. One establishes a meaning while another explains it; A poses a difficulty while B refutes it. Strange and orthodox elements coexist, much like the *Spring and Autumn Annals* serving as the classic, with the *Zuo Zhuan* recording history, and the *Gongyang* and *Guliang* commentaries being judged by works like *Chunqiu Fanlu*. Finally, occasional comments are made. Though unskilled, I dare not decline. However, books value concise and appropriate writing over ornate rhetoric, and I have no leisure to discuss the excellence of utensils or the value of appreciation. Generally, those containing essence and blooming flowers, seeking wonders and mysteries, amount to sixteen chapters in this compilation, covering all matters regarding tea.

I. Tracing the Source
Tea is a fine tree of the South. Its tree resembles *Gualu*, leaves resemble gardenia, flowers resemble white roses, fruits resemble palm nuts, stamens resemble lilacs, and roots resemble walnuts. Its names are: one is Cha, two is She, three is Chuan, four is Ming, five is Cha. In the Shan Nan region, Shanzhou produces the best, followed by Xiangzhou and Jingzhou. South of Hengshan, Guangzhou is best, followed by Yiyang Commandery and Shanzhou; Shouzhou is inferior, and Qizhou and Huangzhou are even lower. In the Zhejiang West region, Huzhou is best, followed by Changzhou; Xuanzhou, Mozhou, and Shenzhou are inferior, and Runzhou and Suzhou are even lower. In the Jiannan region, Pengzhou is best, followed by Mianzhou, Shuzhou, and Qiongzhou; Yazhou and Luzhou are inferior, and Meizhou and Hanzhou are even lower. In the Zhejiang East region, Yuezhou is best, followed by Mingzhou; Taizhou is inferior. Tea grows in Enzhou, Bozhou, Feizhou, and Yizhou in Qian; Ezhou, Yuanzhou, and Jizhou in Jiangnan; Jianzhou, Fuzhou, Shaozhou, and Xiangzhou in Lingnan. The conditions of these eleven prefectures—En, Bo, Fei, Yi, Ez, Yuan, Ji, Jian, Fu, Shao, Xiang—are unknown. Often obtained, their taste is excellent. (From Lu Yu's *Biography of Tea*; Lu Yu, courtesy name Hongjian, also named Ji, courtesy name Jici, pseudonym Sangzhu Weng) According to Tang dynasty records, tea-producing areas were merely as described by Jici. Today, places like Huqiu, Luojie, Tianchi, Guzhu, Songluo, Longjing, Yandang, and Wuyi produce tea, but cultivation is poor, or picking and processing are rough. (From Luo Lin's *Tea Solution*; Luo Lin, courtesy name Gaojun) In the valleys between Wu and Chu, the air is clear and the land spiritual, with grass and trees standing tall, mostly nurturing fine tea. Generally, Wuyi's "White Milk" is superior; Wuxing's "Purple Bamboo Shoots" are ranked first. Tea produced near Yuxue becomes famous through Tianzhang Temple; tea from Maoqiantang is rare due to Jingshan. As for Xuluzhi Rock, Yunheng Foot, Ya Mountain known in Wusheng, Mengding transmitted in Minshu, they stand independently with slight advantages, numerous in detail. (From Ye Qingchen's *Boiling Tea Spring Products*) Tang people first praised Yangxian tea, Song people valued Jianzhou tea most. Currently, tribute tea comes mostly from these two places, but Yangxian has only its name, and Jianzhou is not top grade; only Wuyi Pre-Rain tea is best. Recently favored is Changxing's Luojie tea, suspected to be ancient Guzhu Purple Bamboo Shoots. However, Luojie has several locations, now only Dongshan tea is most valued. Yao Bodao said: "In the Moonlight Gorge, there is fine tea, with remote charm and sweet fragrance, worthy of being called immortal product." Guzhu also has good tea, now called Shuikou tea, completely different from Luojie. If Shexian's Songluo, Wuzhou's Huqiu, Hangzhou's Longjing, they can rival Luojie. Guo Cifu highly praised Huangshan tea; Huangshan is also in Shexian, far from Songluo. Previously, scholars valued Tianchi tea, but drinking too much causes bloating. Zhejiang produces Yandang, Dapan, Jinhua, Rizu, all comparable to Wuyi. Qiantang mountains produce much tea; South Hill is good, North Hill is slightly inferior. Besides Wuyi, Quanzhou's Qingyuan tea, if made by skilled hands, rivals Wuyi, but unfortunately often scorched and dry, disappointing. Chu produces Baoqing tea, Dian produces Wuhua tea, both famous, above Yan tea. Other famous mountains' production is likely more, perhaps unknown to me or not yet famous, thus not discussed. (From Xu Chizhu's *Tea Manual*; Xu Chizhu, courtesy name Ranming)

[Commentary] Says: In the past, people compared Lu Yu drinking tea to Houji planting grain, truly so. Seeing Han Yu's "Letter Thanking for Bestowed Tea" saying: "The King of Wu honored the wise, then heard of setting up tea; Jin people loved guests, then had divided tea," we know the credit for creation did not start with Sangzhu (Lu Yu), but tea processing became complete starting from Jici. Since then, products from famous mountains, spiritual herbs gradually multiplied, human skill improved, fine tea became daily renowned, all following Jici as the standard, so he can be called the ancestor of the mountain school. Cai Junmo and others below are lamp-transmitting scholars. Also said: Tea belongs to human post-natal life, like clothing reporting to the body. Perhaps earth spirit gathers elegance, or what was produced in ancient times is no longer taken today, saying ice soil moves frequently, mountain and river natures change, where does spirit come from, where does elegance rise, human dependent retribution, how can it remain constant? People suffer from not thinking of the root. Above traces the source.

II. Obtaining the Land
Top grade grows in rotten stone soil, medium grade in gravel soil, bottom grade in yellow earth. Wild is superior to garden-grown. Yin slopes and valley areas are unsuitable for picking and drinking. (From *Biography of Tea*) In tea-producing areas, the sunset side of the mountain is better than the sunrise side; Miaohou Mountain faces west, hence called good, but generally not as good as Dongshan facing south, receiving special yang energy, called immortal product. (From Xiong Mingdao's *Jieshan Tea Record*) Tea land facing south is good, facing yin is inferior. Thus within one mountain, beauty and ugliness differ greatly. (From *Tea Solution*) Tea produced in flat lands receives much earth qi, so its quality is turbid; tea produced in high mountains is entirely wind and dew clear void qi, so it is commendable. (From *Jieshan Tea Record*) Tea certainly should not be mixed with evil trees, only osmanthus, plum, magnolia, rose, green pine, emerald bamboo, planted among them, enough to cover frost and snow, reflect autumn sun; underneath can plant fragrant orchids, quiet chrysanthemums, pure fragrance things, most taboo vegetable plots pressing close, inevitably seeping, damaging its true purity. (From *Tea Solution*)

[Commentary] Says: Governing the world, examine its soil suitability; vast valleys and great rivers have different systems, humans living among them have different forms; barren land people are sparse, fertile land people are dense; hard... all imitate their shapes, know benefits and harms, reach desires, determine mountains and rivers, divide boundaries, list products, distinguish tribute, this is obtaining the land. Humans are so, let alone tea.

III. Riding the Time
Picking tea is between February, March, April. Tea shoots grow in rotten stone fertile soil, four or five cun long, like ferns just sprouting, picked with dew. Qingming is too early, Lixia is too late, Guyu前后 (around Grain Rain) time is appropriate. If delayed one or two days, waiting for its energy to be full, fragrance fierce doubled, easy to store. (From *Tea Manual*)
Tea is best before the first rain after emerging. Only Luojie tea opens gardens at Lixia, prized in Wu area, stems and leaves thick, having Xiaoruo air, still six or seven days before summer, like sparrow tongues are best, slice tea is also good. (From *Jie Tea Record*)
Not before summer not picked, first picking called opening garden; picking from mid-summer called spring tea. Its land is slightly cold, so must get this, also should not blame it for being too late. Previously no autumn picking, recently there is, July-August pick again, called early spring, its grade very good. Not minding small thinness, other mountains seeking profit, pick many Mei tea. Mei tea is bitter and astringent, and harms autumn picking, good production warns against it. (From *Tea Manual*)
Shuangjing and Tianmu tea, after Lixia, before Xiaoman, pick only once, absolutely no more picking. Only feed on rain and dew, strictly forbid fertilizing soil, so stored for years. Color, smell, taste turn better, dew without clouds. Picking timing, sunny day harmonious; next picking timing, accumulated rain heavy yin, do not know if acceptable. (From *Tea Saying*)

[Commentary] Says: Time cannot be violated, timing cannot be lost, is Sangzhu Weng the sage of mean-time? Thousand years later, picking and processing periods, no one can exceed his time, Luo Gaojun rarely changes, more experiencing mountain and river cold and warm, observing grass and tree holding and releasing, waiting for time to rise, responding to time to start, not working falsely, not harming material power.

IV. Measuring Processing
If rainy day do not pick, if cloudy sunny day do not pick. Pick on sunny day, steam it, pound it, pat it, bake it, thread it, seal it, tea is dry. (From *Biography of Tea*)
Cut tea with fingernail, not finger, with nail then fast cut not soft, with finger then much wet easily damaged. (From Song Zi'an's *Dongpo Testing Tea Record*)
When tea first picked, aroma not penetrated, must borrow fire power to emit its aroma. But tea nature not enduring labor, frying not suitable long, take much into pan, then hand force uneven, long in pan overheated, then aroma scatters. Frying pan, most dislike new iron, must pre-select one pan, do not use for other purposes. Frying firewood, only bark, do not use dry leaves. Dry then fire power fierce, leaf then easy flame easy extinguish. Pan must grind wash clean, pick and fry immediately. One pan inside, only use four liang, first use gentle fire fry, then add strong fire urge it. Hand add wooden finger, quickly scoop turn, with half-cooked as degree, slightly wait aroma emit, this is timing. (From *Tea Manual*)
Tea first picked, must pick away branch stem old leaf, only take tender leaf, also must remove tip and handle and vein, fear it easily scorched, this is Songluo method. Frying time must one person from beside fan it, to dispel hot air, otherwise yellow color, smell taste both reduce. I personally tested, fanned color emerald, unfanned color yellow. Fry out of pan, place in large ceramic plate, still must urgent fan, let hot air retreat, by hand heavy knead it, again scatter into pan, gentle fire fry dry, enter baking, cover knead then its juice floats up, point time smell taste easy out. Tian Zilong believes raw sun-dried not fried not kneaded is best. Occasionally tried, only makes hot soup, and day腥味 grass smell, specially no good charm. (From Wen Long's *Tea Notebook*; Wen Long, courtesy name Yinlin, originally courtesy name Zhongda)
Fire fierce aroma clear, pan cold spirit tired; fire fierce generate scorched, wood sparse lose emerald; long delay then overcooked, quick rise yet return raw; cooked then offend yellow, raw then attach green.
Classic says bake, dig pool deep two chi, wide one chi five cun, long one zhang. Above make short wall, high two chi, mud with wood, construct on bake. Weave wood two layers, high one chi to bake tea. Tea half dry, lift down shelf, fully dry lift up shelf. Foolish say modern people not necessarily fully use this method, I once construct small bake room, high not exceed xun, square not reach zhang, longitudinal width equal, four sides and top, cotton paper densely paste, no small gap. Place three or four fire jars inside, install new bamboo sieve on jar inside, pre-wash new hemp cloth piece to line it, scatter fried tea on sieve, close door and bake, above direction not cover cover tea. Leaf still moist, one cover then air stuffy yellow, must bake two or three hours, wait moist air finish, then cover with bamboo basket, bake extremely dry, out jar wait cool, enter vessel store. Later bake, also use this method. Color smell and taste, not cause too reduce. (From *Tea Notebook*)
Tea's wonder, lies in beginning make's refinement, store's getting method, point's getting appropriateness. Superior inferior determined by initial pan, clear turbid depends on end fire. (From *Tea Record*)
All famous teas, methods mostly use frying. Only Luo jie specializes in steaming and baking, taste truly蕴藉 (restrained/contained), world competes to treasure it. Even Guzhu Yangxian, close to Dongshan, no longer imitates this. Think this method particularly suitable for Luo jie, cannot generally apply to other teas. And classic already says steam it bake it, then source from far. (From *Tea Notebook*) Must get color complete, only must use fan, must fully smell taste, at time bake fry, this make tea's standard, pass tea's robe. (From *Ming Ji*)

[Commentary] Says: Tracing source, obtaining land, riding time, exhaust thing's nature. Measuring processing losing rhythm, still same as grass mustard. Can exhaust person's nature, then can exhaust thing's nature.

V. Storing Tea
Nurture made of wood, weave with bamboo, paste with paper, inside has nanmu, above has cover, below has bed, beside has door, cover one fan, one vessel stores tea.
Storing tea likes rattan leaf but fears fragrance, tea likes warm dry but fears cold damp. Storing time first use green rattan, weave with bamboo silk, place around jar, bake tea wait cool, store in vessel, with raw charcoal fire roast pass, scorching sun expose let extinguish, randomly insert tea middle, seal jar mouth, cover with new brick, place high bright near person place, moldy weather rain occasion, strictly avoid open cover. Take use must on sunny bright time, take small amount, separately store small bottle, empty place, immediately fill with rattan, seal place as before, then can be long-lasting. Or after Summer Solstice bake once, or after Autumn Equinox bake once. (From *Jieshan Tea Record*)
Strictly avoid facing wind near fire, facing wind easily cold, near fire first yellow. (From *Tea Record*)
All storing tea vessels, always store tea, not allowed move to other use. (From *Tea Solution*)
Wu people extremely value Luo jie tea, often mix with yellow black rattan, big is lack matter. I every store tea, must let Qiaoqing, enter mountain pick bamboo arrow rattan, wipe clean dry, protect jar four sides, half use cut碎, mix into tea middle, year after open cover, emerald like new. (From *Tea Notebook*)
Place place, must be always sit lie place, approach human breath, then constant temperature not cold. Must be board house, not suitable earth room; board house dry, earth room easy steam; also want ventilate, do not place hidden place, especially easy steam damp. (From *Tea Record*)
Luo Sheng says tea wine two matters, until today can call exquisite absolute, before no ancients, only can with deeply know person speak. Tea wine surpass previous generation rare essence...

[Commentary] Says: Treating tea like founding enterprise, storing tea like guarding enterprise. Founding easy, guarding hard. Guarding hard, again not like using person harder. Like protecting infant, minute prevent.

VI. Tasting Springs
Mountain water top, river water middle, well water bottom. Mountain water choose milk spring, stone pool, slow flow top, its waterfall surge rapid wash do not eat, long eat make person have neck...
Guide flow to drain its evil, make new spring trickle pour it. River water, take go person far place. (From *Biography of Tea*)
Mountain spreads qi to nourish ten thousand things, qi spreads then pulse long, so say mountain water top; spring not difficult on clear, but difficult on cold, its rapid flow swift and clear, rock...
River, is public water. Many waters enter together. Water together then taste mixed, so say river water second; water take go person far place, because go person far, then...
I few get Wen Shi wrote *Tea Saying*, try test its water spring items, have twenty. Meet west go Ba Gorge, pass Toad Cave, north rest Wucheng, draw Shugang well, east travel former capital, cross Yangzi River, stay Danyang, sip Guanyin Spring, pass Wuxi, draw Huishan spring water, powder spear end flag, Su lan firewood gui, both tripod both pot, to drink to sip, no not boil qi cleanse thought, remove disease analyze hangover, remove base stingy generate heart, invite spirit god and return view, truly thing class get appropriate, odor smell so sense, secluded person's good esteem, former sage's fine appraisal unreachable. (From *Boiling Tea Spring Products*)
Mountain top spring clear and light, mountain bottom spring clear and heavy. Stone middle spring clear and sweet, sand middle spring clear and cold. Earth middle spring clear and white, flow in yellow stone...
Mountain thick then spring thick, mountain strange then spring strange; mountain clear then spring clear, mountain secluded then spring secluded, all good products. Not thick then thin, not strange then stupid; not...
Spring not sweet, then damage tea taste. Former generation discuss water grade by this. (From Cai Xiang's *Tea Spectrum*; Cai Xiang, courtesy name Junmo)
My hometown four borders all mountains, spring water everywhere. But all pale not sweet, only so-called Ta spring. Its source come out Siming Chan Yuan Cave, pass Da Lan Xiao Jiao all famous peaks, winding stream hundred folds, secluded ravine thousand branches, along return spread, not abandon day night. Tang Yin County Magistrate Wang Gong Yuanwei, build dam at Ta Shan, to divide note rivers, from cave to dam, not down three number li. Water color azure, white sand white stone, shimmering see bottom. Clear cold sweet smooth, first in commandery. I ashamed not able to float family roam house, send old at here. Every arrive float, ten days forget return, carry tea just cook, precious fresh specially very. Truly spring source's best win, Ou Xi upper flavor. Because remote at sea corner, map classic leak, so again new of record net hear. Jici's spoon cannot reach, thus not able with Gulian all springs rank, compare like fly escape lucky person, extinguish shadow virtuous scholar, directly will escape fame world outside, also will forever entrust know rare. (From *Tea Notebook*)
Mountain spring slightly far, connect bamboo lead it, receive with strange stone, store with clean vat, its sound congcong lovely, move water take stone, although nourish its taste...
Sweet spring spin draw, use of then good. Bing she in city, how easy get. So should many draw, store with large urn, but dislike new vessel, for its fire qi not retreat easy damage water, also easy generate insect, long use then good. Most dislike other use, water nature fear wood, pine fir especially, wood bucket store water, its harm breed especially, carry bottle best. (From *Tea Manual*)
Boil tea must sweet spring, second plum rain. Plum rain like paste, ten thousand things rely on nourish, its taste only sweet, plum after then not bear drink. Large urn full store, throw Fulonggan one piece, that stove center red earth also, ride heat collect. (From *Tea Solution*)
Boil water work merit occupy six, no spring then use heaven water, autumn rain top, plum rain second. Autumn rain cold and white, plum rain mellow and white; snow water five grain essence also, but color cannot white; nourish water must place stone in urn, not only benefit water, and white stone clear spring, meeting heart also not in far. Renyin Laba, pass Nanping, monk Bi Po boil tea, not拘 old tender, all can enter mouth. Also not in tea utensils, although rice pan middle, also praise its taste, time with him wander, thus become tea addiction. Every order long beard far draw Tiger Run Spring, Ge Xian Weng Well, or ask friend bring Huishan spring water, because tea's wonder in water develop. Every meet plum rain, hold cloth receive, or lotus leaf, or disk plate, or tin make board, slide accumulate urn middle, test boil... all have mist, far不及 spring water's clear and clean also. One day accidentally take stored plum rain, see mosquito larvae black insects dozens hundred, jump bowl inside, thus... all good, but not can just use, must place vessel long time, wait its color change insect go, color smell taste begin wonderful, not like spring water only can leave several days, long then taste change. After this not trouble far serve slave son, also not exclusively take plum rain, only wait long rain time, toward rapid flow middle, large vat receive store. Month plus later,