Library

Cantonese dialect: In regions where fish are abundant, people often cultivate them in ponds. Once the fingerlings grow into adults, their nature is opposite to that of the crucian carp (Carassius auratus). The crucian carp belongs to Earth element, its nature is sinking, and it stays submerged in water; [the hairtail] belongs to Water element, its nature is floating, and it often leaps above the water surface. Eating crucian carp can solidify the intestines, while eating hairtail can promote Qi circulation. The former is static while the latter is active; thus, their natures differ significantly.

This fish becomes fat in winter, hence its name. It likes to swim on the surface of waves and jumps several zhang when encountering currents. Consuming it raw can augment human strength.

*Wuxun Zapie*: The hairtail resembles the silver carp but is slightly shorter, with a very delicious taste, especially when prepared as sashimi (kuai). It strengthens the muscles and bones, invigorates blood circulation, promotes Qi movement, and expels water dampness.

Found in the sea, it resembles a belt, with a pointed head and a thin tail. Its length varies from five to six chi. It has no scales, and its body secretes mucus. When dried, it appears silvery. There are no fine bones throughout the body; only one central vertebral column remains, shaped like the edge of a winnowing basket, with meat enveloping both sides. Nowadays, people commonly consume it as seafood. According to fishermen, this fish arrives from the open ocean in August, swimming in schools of thousands. They swim in a chain, holding each other's tails, making them impossible to catch with nets. Only fishing can catch them. Fishermen usually use pieces of dried hairtail meat as bait. Once one fish bites, the others follow in a chain, allowing the boat to be filled upon retrieval. This fish appears in August and peaks in October. Heavy fog indicates an abundance of fish, while light fog indicates scarcity. Prices generally fluctuate according to the fog conditions. *Bencao Gangmu* omitted this species under the section of scaleless fish, so it is added here for supplementation.

*Wuzazu*: In Fujian, there is hairtail over three meters long. It is scaleless and fishy, considered the cheapest among all fish. It is not served to guests at the table. However, households of moderate means fry it with oil, and it becomes very fragrant and clean.

*Fuqing Zhi*: The hairtail is thin and long, resembling a belt. It is scaleless and emits light at night. Smaller ones are colloquially called "Dailiu".

*Wujian*: The hairtail is slender and long like a belt, swimming in a chain. When fishermen catch one, the rest follow continuously without breaking the chain until the boat is full and overflowing. Then they cut the chain with a knife and discard the rest.

*Yuhuan Zhi*: Hairtail swim with heads and tails connected.

Fishing method: Use a long rope with bamboo tubes as floats, drifting on the ocean surface. Attach 120 small lines to the main rope. Each small line has a one-chi copper wire tied to its end, with a three-cun iron hook attached to the copper wire. Use hairtail meat as bait. Before obtaining hairtail, use "snotty fish" as a substitute. This method applies to catching all sea fish. The fishing season runs from September to February of the following year, known as the "fish season".

Zhu Paishan, *Ganyuan Xiaoshi*: Hairtail lives in the sea, resembling an eel, with a sharp head, flat body, large eyes, and fine teeth. It is white, scaleless, with a spine like a comb. The flesh is fine and fatty, two to three chi long, resembling a belt, also called "skirt hairtail". During winter storms, it can be caught easily. It can be made into dried fish (xiang) for long-distance transport.

Taste is sweet, nature is neutral. It harmonizes the middle jiao and stimulates appetite (Food Taboos).

The hairtail is long, flat, and thin like a belt, white and scaleless, with fine and excellent meat. Prepared as sashimi, pickled, or air-dried, it can be stored for a long time without spoiling. Fried or cooked, it tastes delicious, but excessive consumption may induce scabies. (Can be eaten in batches of dozens. Pickled is good. It glows at night, therefore it is considered toxic (Xiaoxing Kao).