（音房。《食疗》）
【释名】 鱼（音编）。
时珍曰∶鲂，方也。 ，扁也。其状方，其身扁也。
【集解】时珍∶鲂鱼处处有之，汉沔尤多。小头缩项，穹脊阔腹，扁身细鳞，其色青白。
腹内有肪，味最腴美。其性宜活水。故《诗》云∶岂其食鱼，必河之鲂。
美如牛羊。又有一种火烧 ，头尾俱似鲂，而脊骨更隆。上有赤鬣连尾，如蝙蝠之翼，黑质
赤章，色如烟熏，故名。其大有至二、三十斤者。
肉
【气味】甘，温，无毒。
【主治】调胃气，利五脏。和芥食之，能助肺气，去胃风，消谷。作 食之，助脾气，
令人能食。作羹 食，宜人，功与鲫同。患疳痢人勿食（孟诜）。
（宋《嘉 》）
【释名】四鳃鱼。
时珍曰∶黑色曰卢。此鱼白质黑章，故名。淞人名四鳃鱼。
【集解】时珍曰∶鲈出吴中，淞江尤盛，四五月方出。长仅数寸，
黑点，巨口细鳞，有四鳃。杨诚斋诗颇尽其状，云∶鲈出鲈乡芦叶前，
来玉尺如何短，铸出银梭直是圆。白质黑章三四点，细鳞巨口一双鲜。春风已
得秋风更迥然。《南郡记》云∶吴人献淞江鲈 于隋炀帝。帝曰∶金齑玉 ，
肉
【气味】甘，平，有小毒。
宗 曰∶虽有小毒，不甚发病。
禹锡曰∶多食，发 癖疮肿，不可同乳酪食。李鹏飞云∶肝不可食，剥人面皮。
诜曰∶中鲈鱼毒者，芦根汁解之。
【主治】补五脏，益筋骨，和肠胃，治水气。多食宜人，作 尤良。曝干甚香美（嘉 ）。
益肝肾（宗 ）。安胎补中。作 尤佳（孟诜）。
(Fang, pronunciation. From *Shiliao Bencao* [Food Therapy Materia Medica])
[Names] Yu (pronunciation Bian).
Li Shizhen said: Fang means "square." Yu refers to "flat." Its shape is square, and its body is flat.
[Collected Explanations] Li Shizhen said: Fang fish are found everywhere, but especially abundant in the Han and Mian rivers. It has a small head and retracted neck, a convex back and broad belly, a flat body with fine scales, and its color is greenish-white.
There is fat inside the abdomen, and the taste is extremely rich and delicious. Its nature prefers living water. Thus, the *Classic of Poetry* says: "When eating fish, must it be the river Fang?"
It is as delicious as beef and mutton. There is also a variety called Huoshao Yu (Fire-baked Fish), whose head and tail resemble Fang fish, but the spinal bone is more prominent. It has red fins on top connected to the tail, resembling bat wings, with a black base and red markings, colored like smoked meat, hence the name. Some can weigh up to twenty or thirty jin.
Meat
[Properties and Flavors] Sweet, warm, non-toxic.
[Indications] Regulates stomach Qi, benefits the five Zang organs. Consumed with mustard greens, it assists Lung Qi, dispels Stomach wind, and promotes grain digestion. Eaten as porridge, it assists Spleen Qi and enhances appetite. Made into soup, it is suitable for the human body, with effects similar to Crucian Carp. Those suffering from infantile malnutrition (Gan syndrome) and dysentery should not eat it (Meng Shen).
(From Song Dynasty *Jiayou Bencao* [Bencao Elaborated])
[Names] Four-gill Fish.
Li Shizhen said: Black is called Lu. This fish has a white body with black markings, hence the name. People in Songjiang call it the Four-gill Fish.
[Collected Explanations] Li Shizhen said: Perch originates from the Wuzhong region, most abundantly in Songjiang River, appearing in the fourth and fifth lunar months. They are only a few inches long, have black spots, large mouths, fine scales, and four gills. Yang Chengzhai's poem describes them well: "Perch grows before the reed leaves in Perch Township; how short they are when measured by a jade ruler; cast into silver shuttles, they are truly round. White bodies with three or four black spots, fine scales and large mouths, a pair of fresh ones. Spring winds have arrived, autumn winds are even more distinct." The *Nanjun Ji* states: People of Wu presented Songjiang Perch to Emperor Yang of Sui. The Emperor said: "Golden relish and Jade slices,"
[Properties and Flavors] Sweet, neutral, slightly toxic.
Su Song said: Although slightly toxic, it does not easily induce disease onset.
Chen Cangqi said: Overconsumption induces accumulation disorders, sores, and swellings; it should not be eaten with milk or cheese. Li Pengfei said: The liver is inedible, reputedly capable of peeling human facial skin.
Meng Shen said: For those poisoned by Perch, Reed Rhizome juice can resolve the toxicity.
[Indications] Tonifies the five Zang organs, strengthens sinews and bones, harmonizes the intestines and stomach, treats edema/water qi. Eating more is beneficial for the body; making it into raw fish slices (Kuai) is particularly good. Dried, it is very fragrant and delicious (Su Song).
Benefits Liver and Kidney (Su Song). Calms the fetus and tonifies the center. Making it into raw fish slices is particularly excellent (Meng Shen).